Before using the iron-on method to attach paper backed veneer with Titebond’s wood glue, I emailed Titebond for instructions and asked about the differences when using this method with Titebond I, II, and III. It turns out, there are significant application differences between their various glues.  Also, there is a disclaimer, as they have not done long-term testing with this method.

According to a representative, there are no reported failures when applied correctly using glue that is within its usable shelf life. Though, two issues that one might run into are 1) failure to heat the glue to the correct temperature and 2) exceeding the reactivation window.  Most instructions on the net just say “let dry completely” but say nothing about any activation window. For Titebond II and III, this activation window is only 12 hours.  Finally, one more disclaimer from the technical representatives:

[There is] the possibility that the adhesive holding the paper to the back of the veneer may be damaged by the heat. If it is merely softened, reversibly like our glues, then it ought to reform that bond as the assembly cools, with no problems. If, however, it is damaged or degraded, the customer could end up with our glue anchoring the backing to the core, but the veneer itself loose from the backing. With that in mind, I might pass along our lack of knowledge of the paper to veneer bond, and suggest that the customer test the veneer involved before attempting a large project.

Instructions for the iron-on veneering method:

• iron
• veneer
• Veneer tape
• PVA glue (Titebond White Glue), Aliphatic resin glue (Titebond Original Wood Glue), or PVAC glue (Titebond II Premium Wood Glue, Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue)
• Paint roller or paint brush (used to apply the glue)
• Spray bottle containing water (optional)
• Shellac (3 lb-cut) (optional)
• Paper towel (optional)